#2: Comprehensive cookbooks describing a country’s culinary collection

My favourite book for this 2nd challenge (delayed but not denied :) is a Nigerian cookbook (1982) by M. Isoun, H.O. Anthonio.

This women are in our Hall of Fame for this work, and in the Feast Afrique Digital Library, here.

“Challenged and annoyed by a 1965 article in the New York Times that condescended to, and reduced, ‘Black African cuisine’ as “an unedifying necessity,” Miriam Isoun paired up with Henrietta Olaitan Anthonio and committed to magnifying and celebrating the variety of Nigerian cuisine, both to Nigerians and the international scene. In their cookery book, Nigerian Cookbook (Macmillan, 1982), H. Olaitan spoke of the fear of Nigerian food preparation methods becoming extinct because they hadn’t been written down. So, these women wrote them down.”

It is one of my favourite books for the thoroughness of its content, the ingredient-based approach and the completeness that gives a basic introduction to a country of many flavours. It features a great introduction to the pantry, a solid glossary, measurements and a host of delightful recipes that honour tradition but also show ‘creativity’ of that time, from garri biscuits to Doughtnut balls/ puffpuff made with palm wine.

There are recipes I’ve encountered here that I would not have come across were it not for the book. Like ‘dry fish butter’, a pate like spread that’s delicious - I’ve made it - and little known.

The most painful thing about this is it’s out of print. You might be able - like I did - to find old copies on the internet. It’s why finding a copy and having the capacity to add that to the digital library is one of my greatest joys.

That it was written in the 80s, capturing the food of one of the glorious eras of Nigerian food and drink history, makes it a historically important document. In addition, there is so much that’s lost and this can help the reclamation of that, as well as providing contextual information for many of the dishes that still exist. It is as relevant today as it was thena nd everyone should read it.

Check out the digital library for more books like this. [If you want to go directly to the cookbook, here’s a link].

What is the most comprehensive cookbooks describing a country’s culinary collection from Africa and the Black Diaspora you know?

What to do next? Check out the Feast Afrique Digital Library for Practical West African Cooking and other books, and share your favourites x